Horse Saddles

2009-09-19T15:38:00.000-07:00


15.5" 16" Crates Ladies Tooled Reiner Saddle 4521 Suggested at: $2,300.00 Our Price: $1,564.00	13" 14" 15" 16" 17" High Horse Eagle Pass Trail Saddle by Circle Y 6813 Reg or Wide Suggested at: $1,250.00 Our Price: $881.50	15.5" 'The 604' Roper by Saddlesmith 291604 Suggested at: $1,170.00 Our Price: $829.50	15" 16" 17" Flex Trail - Tex Tan Saddle Medium or Wide (FQHB) Tree 08-tf411p6 Suggested at: $1,500.00 Our Price: $1,107.70

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When buying a saddle, be it new or used, it is very important that the saddle not only fit you, but that it also fits your horse. While some saddles can be re-stuffed, only so much can be altered through the re-stuffing process. It is best to find a saddle that fits well in the first place.

Most retailers will assent buyers to take home a saddle to try on their horse. Some will charge a deposit or even the full price in advance, but will accept the return if the saddle does not fit. As long as you do not repairs the saddle, most will accept a return without difficulty.

Saddles are totalled according to the length of the seat. A 16″ saddle measures 16″ from the thrash to the cantle. With this in mind, you need to consider how big a saddle you need to absolutely sit in. The average adult is comfortable in a 17″ seat. Teenagers can in all manage a 16″, while children often need something smaller.

If possible, try sitting on a few different sizes of saddles to see what size of seat best suits your needs. Keep in thoughts that the aloft the thrash and cantle, the tighter the fit will be.

As long as the saddle feels comfortable to sit in, your will substantially be in good figure as a rider. Keep in thoughts the tallness of the thrash and cantle, and the positioning of the padding. Some saddles offer adjustable padding, quite in the knee roll.

The rest of the fitting is associated to your horse. Saddles come in three simple tree sizes, narrow, middle and wide. Most horses will fit a middle tree. Fine boned horses such as Arabians, sometimes need a narrow tree to fit the make up of their back. Wide trees are suited to horses with broad backs such as warmbloods or draft crosses.

When the tree is the correct width, the saddle should sit uniformly on your horse’s back with both sets of stuffing resting on the muscles along the backbone. There should be a clear opening along the spinal column all the way from the front to the back of the saddle. If there is no gap, the tree is too wide. If the stuffing is sitting on the backbone, the tree is too narrow. Some saddles have adjustable trees, making them great for riders who need to float a range of horses who may have different body types.

Next, you need to consider the pommel. While the tallness of the thrash affects your seat, it also relates to the horse’s whither. If your horse has a high whither, you might need a saddle with a aloft pommel. Some saddles have cut-back pommels which are written to offer room for a quite high whither.

Finally, the flaps need to rest absolutely along the horse’s shoulder and side. The front edge should not rest off the horse’s side, nor should it dig into his shoulder. A scrupulously propitious saddle should rest uniformly along your horse’s side, with no air space or pinched places.

To check your saddle’s fit, place it on your clean horse’s back without any padding. With a supporter to hold the saddle secure, take a good look at how the saddle fits upon your horse. Note any spaces or places where it rubs. If the saddle does not appear to fit, don’t try to float in it, just return it to the store and discuss the issues you found with the supplier.

If it seems to fit, mislay the saddle, and add a clean, thin saddle pad. Fasten the saddle, and see how it looks when the girth is tight. Then try riding in it. Give you horse a good workout, doing whatever you normally would do with him. If he seems sore, stop you ride, and take off the saddle. Ideally, you want to get your horse into a light sweat, just enough to see how the saddle sits on his back while he works.

Remove the saddle when you are done, and check your horse’s back. Are the persperate outlines uniformly suited from one side of your horse to the other? Are there any places that seem to be more ragged than others? If the persperate outlines are even, and the weight appears to have been distributed uniformly via the saddle, your saddle fits. Any disproportionate wear is a sign that it does not fit correctly.

Be sure to easily clean the saddle before returning it to the store. Sweat can repairs the material if left on the saddle for any length of time, and it looks bad to return the saddle with signs of wear and tear. Do not use the saddle for more than one test ride. Let the store owner know how your float went, and possibly return or keep the saddle depending on how well it fit.

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There are many types of saddles of which each requires its own singular fit. The withers are structured with small skeleton which fan forward, true and back, much like the fingers on your hand. These small skeleton are very supportive to pressure; if your saddle is pressing on these small skeleton it can cause your horse a lot of pain and discomfort. A high dry horse will need a saddle that is high enough in the gullet to forestall any contact with the small skeleton in the withers. Any saddle should have at slightest 2 to 3 fingers, about 1 inch, stretch between the gullet and the withers when placed in the proper position. Your saddle pad can also put vigour on the swab bones. When you sit in your saddle your weight will lift the bars of the saddle down on the horses back. If your pad is placed parsimonious to the withers and then your sit in your saddle it will lift your pad tighter and apply more vigour on the withers.

Be sure to check this area once you are in the saddle to make sure your saddle is not in contact with and your pad is not parsimonious against the ethereal swab bones. When placing your saddle on your horse make a tent with the pad, pulling it up inside the gullet of the saddle. Then when you cinch your saddle and sit in it your pad will still be loose over the withers. There are many different saddletrees which are all written to discharge your weight opposite the horses back. If your tree is not the proper fit for your horse your weight will not be distributed opposite the whole tree A saddle that is too narrow will contact the back at the bottom of the bar and there will be more of your weight at the bottom of the bars. A saddle that is too wide will have more contact with the back at the top of the bars and not the bottom. Anytime the bars are not flat they are not distributing the riders weight uniformly and will splash your horses back causing bruise spots and in the future white hairs. If you are not sure about what size tree your horse will need greatfully contact us and we can help you to measure your horse for proper fit.

Placing Your Saddle Correctly
The saddle should be placed with the tree of the saddle 2 inches at the back of your horse’s shoulder or scapula bone (the large bone below the withers and in front of the rib cage). It does not make a difference what acknowledgment your horse has, or the type of fortify you ride, the corner of the tree is always placed 2 inches at the back of the shoulder bone. With the saddle in its proper on all sides it will allow the horse’s shoulder to move openly without vigour and without restricting movement.

The Length of The Back Varies With Each Horse
Consideration needs to be taken as to the length of your horse’s back. Horses have different size backs, some have a reduced back, others horses have long backs. A reduced back horse will usually have trouble with a large dress on the saddle and will need a dull dress in order to forestall rubbing on the hipbones, which can cause sores on the hindquarters. Look at your horse and order his body into three equal parts, if the back is longer than one third of your horse’s altogether body length, he has a long back. If the back area is shorter than a third of the horse then he has a reduced back, with the back area being from the point of the hip to the top of the withers. Short back horses are usually more flexible but tend to loose some flexibility.

Custom Fit Is A Great Answer
Find a source that give you trees in assorted sizes with the most usual being the semi quarter horse tree (usually 6.5″). There is no concept sizing in trees. Find an opening that not only gives you assorted tree sizes and having stirrups, skirts, fenders and paraphernalia choices are nice. Rigging is typically 7/8″ but can be 3/4″, center fire or full. With these choices along with tooling, color and silver, if desired, your saddle will be singular and one of a kind, written to your specifications for you and your horse. Here is one apparatus for a US made saddle with all the above referred to choices.

Fitting Horse and Rider to the Saddle
We want you to be comfortable as well as your horse. Your saddle seat should not be too small, it will shorten your transformation with the horse and rub and make you sore. Consequently, if your saddles seat is too large you will be slipping and loosing control of your movements. You want to move with the horses transformation and in order to do this your saddle needs to fit your seat properly. With a system of fitting both horse and supplement you are able to get a custom fit for you and your horse.

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